Or, How I lost my favorite pink hat in the Italian woods….
Joining our friends from Milan, Lorenzo and Silena, at the ferry, we enjoyed a quick ride from Rapallo to Portofino. Seeing Rapallo from the Gulf of Tigullio was a treat—the city sprawls and invites with colorful buildings and tall hills. Rounding the bend from Santa Margherita Ligure, you discover Portofino (just over 500 residents) is as picturesque as you’ve heard. That said, Rapallo was a good choice for our stay because tourists disembarking from cruise ships, flood Portofino.
The multitudes quickly overwhelm the compact square, with shops and restaurants instantly becoming crowded. Luckily, we were starting our hike as the first boatloads were coming ashore. We had time to grab a delicious gelato and hit the trail.
Portofino peninsula juts two miles out and separates the Paradiso and Tigullio Gulfs. It is pegged as the safest port along the Ligurian coast due to the geologically natural shelter from the wind. There is a light house, II Faro, on the tip of the peninsula. We would have jaunted to it if we hadn’t already planned the longer hike. This area is part of the Portofino Regional Nature Park. Created in 1935, the Nature Park is a spot Italians are rightly proud of enjoying.
Portofino is Charming
First, Lorenzo took us to the Church of San Martino, approached via the Red Carpet. Italy currently holds the record for the longest carpet at 8km, stretching from Rapallo to this spot. The building makes a spectacular destination without the need for such Hollywood treatment. Built in the 12th century, the Church of San Martino is in the typical Romanesque-Lombard style. The interior is elaborately painted and is known for the statue of the Virgin Mary.
The next church, near Portofino’s Brown Castle, is the less ornate but lovely 12th century San Giorgio. A statue outside, with outstretched arms seemed to implore you to stop and indulge in quiet reflection.
After Seeing these Beauties, We Began Our Hike in Earnest
When you choose this path, prepare yourself for a long ascent. The hike takes two hours with food and photo-moments. You’ll indulge in the greatest number of breathing breaks in the first half hour. You go up, and up, and up a bit more. Luckily, our twenty-five-year’s-younger friends were willing to stop, let us refresh our lungs, sip water. We would admire the views—our typical premise for needing a break.
You’re often in the blazing sun, sometimes ducking into shade, now and again wandering through a blessed copse of trees. We were thrilled with the focaccia pizza with sweet onions that Silena chose and Lorenzo carried for us. It was still warm when we stopped in a suitable spot to dine.
We saw women hiking in bikinis (one a thong)—their outfits completed by hiking poles. Loving hiking clothes, I can’t imagine setting out wearing my bathing suit, but it’s something to think about!
It’s on this trail that my much-loved SPF-coated OR hat went missing. I’m notorious for flinging it off my head when we get into woods. No matter how cool a hat is, when the sun is beating down relentlessly, my head gets hot. When it’s windy I put the tie under my chin, but otherwise, I don’t. This day the pink bonnet was off and on, tied and not. I had successfully flung it onto my shoulders a dozen times, but once was one time too many. It got cast into the Italian woods somewhere near the Abbey of San Fruttuoso. Alas, I was sad and hatless for the remainder of the trip.* My wish is for someone who loves pink finds it and slips it on, delighted at her good fortune.
The Abbey of San Fruttuoso
With the Abbey accessible only by foot or ferry, we pretended we were on an expedition. This is the first historical place I’ve reached via ferry. There are a few houses scattered around the Benedictine Abbey. It is a tiny spot, dominated by the monastic structure and Doria Tower.
The 13th-century abbey is now maintained by the Italian Environment Trust. There is the museum, restaurants, the beach, and of course, the church. Both the cloister and the mausoleum belong to the famous Doria family, the leading power of Genoa from the 12 century. The nearby watchtower was built in the 16th century. Inside the church is a replica of the 1954 bronze statue of Jesus in the Abyss. It matches the statue placed in the bay, commemorating divers lost at sea. It’s considered a diving pilgrimage to visit the underwater statue. Have you heard of it? Have you been?
It was interesting for throngs of people to be sunbathing in front of a monastery. The beach is stone and pebbles. I found it challenging to walk when I shed my shoes and stuck my feet in the cool water. The stalwart Italians were unfazed, amazing me yet again.
Don’t You Love a Ferry Ride
The hike was not as difficult as it was hot, with the weather being warmer than is typical for May. Still, we were happy to catch the ferry from San Fruttuoso back to Rapallo.
About ferry-taking: when leaving San Fruttuoso, there are two ferry stations—one up, one down. Make sure you board the correct ferry. Be entertained at people ignoring the signs to stay back so others can disembark, causing pure chaos for no reason.
I’ve been known to experience a tinge or two (deadly sick marlin fishing in Cabo San Lucas) of motion sickness. Popping a Bonine before the first ride, the easy ride meant I didn’t need one for the second, longer, trip. We sat outside, on top to arrive in Portofino and inside on the return trip. Sitting by the open window, I stuck my face stuck in it, puppy-dog style. I nearly tangled with an American who sat near me. She tried to shut MY window to keep her hair from getting mussed. I expertly blocked her with my arm. It was either the open window or explain what would happen to her hair if I didn’t get fresh air!
Hiking along the Ligurian Coast is gorgeous.
When are you going?
*As a note, I’m wildly crazy about my replacement OR hat. SPF 50, a five-inch brim and it’s PURPLE!
Love that hat, Rose! Not sure if I’d be up for that hike, but it certainly does look like it was worth the effort. Thx for sharing your Italian adventures with us.
Glad you’re enjoying the adventures, Doreen. It was quite a vertical thing, but I’d do it again. Unlike the first two vertical miles of Na’apali in Kauai–beautiful, but I couldn’t be paid to repeat it.
Well … maybe!
The San Fruttuoso hike looks so lovely, and the hat is great too. I have a wide-brimmed khaki one that’s also mosquito repellent.
Oddly, I haven’t run into much issue with mosquitoes, Jeri. But I can totally see where a hat like that could be helpful in certain places.
What a great post, and description and photos of Italy. I do have a question (and possible future post for you), how were you able to get your hiking gear (boots and clothing) all packed for this trip. Whenever I go on a trip, I never seem to have enough room to pack them. Usually end up wearing uncomfortable sneakers if I do go hiking.
Thanks for reading, William. Packing lightly is easy for me after the below trip!
My husband, however, is another story. He is a big guy (like you) and his size 12 hiking shoes take up half a suitcase! Shoes are the most important thing for me on a hiking trip or any trip due to foot issues. I learned years ago to wear my hiking shoes when flying. Alex wears his hiking boots and packs the hiking shoes. That’s the compromise. Then, he picks out his shirts, etc., and I put half of them back in the closet when he isn’t looking. Yes, he knows I do this. He usually comes home with 2-3 shirts he hasn’t worn!
I also travel with a few ounces of Woolite. The lightweight hiking shirts and pants we wear are easily washed by hand and dry quickly–that cuts down on the number of clothes to take, too.
I have begun traveling with hiking poles and although TSA makes me pack them in the suitcase, I lock it (TSA locks) and so far they have arrived with me. The other neccessities are always a squashable hiking hat–this post!–and sunscreen. All good.
https://www.rosemarygriffith.com/how-to-pack-lightly-for-italy/
What an exciting trip!
I can imagine hiking can be challenging in hot weather. It is a shame you lost your hat – hopefully it has been found by someone who loves pink just as much as you!
The internal of the San Giorgio church is simply beautiful. I am sure it is used regularly for weddings.
It was exciting, Phoenicia. Anytime I can combine hiking with good food and churches, I’m a happy traveler!
The hike sounds like so much fun. Sorry to hear about your pink hat. I too, get attached to my hats but loving the purple one!!
Hats are the best, Emily! Love the 5″ brim on the purple one. Shelters even more of my sensitive skin.
The hike to San Fruttuoso looks well worth. Beautiful churches and setting. I too love your new hat- it suits you.
It was well worth the wilting, Donna. The setting is so marvelous. Next time, a bathing suit and water shoes!
I love purple, so it is a good upgrade for me.
It’s fascinating to see things as old as some of those churches isn’t it? We just don’t get that in our part of the world.
We sure don’t, Ken. I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of touring them.
Sounds fun! Enjoy reading about your trips!
Thanks for stopping by, Adam & Diana.